Vintage Necessities: Tertiary Undergarments; Stockings, Slips, and Crinolines

Two days ago I discussed girdles; yesterday I discussed bras and underpants. Today we are going to go to the last layer of undergarments: Stockings, slips and crinolines. I am discussing them in order of dressing, first to last

 

Stockings:

There are three different types of stockings that can be vintage style: garter stockings, thigh-highs, and panty-hose.

 

Thigh-Highs:

Thigh highs typically have elastic or rubber at the top. This keeps them up. On top of the elastic is lace to add a bit of sex appeal and femininity.

This style of stocking is not expressly vintage, but it can give a vintage feel to lingerie. You need to make sure you buy a good brand, though, because some have too much stretch in the actually stocking, which will cause pull and they won't stay up. And, when in doubt, go a size down. Since all that is holding the stocking up is rubber grippers, you do not want to risk them falling just because they are slightly too big. Haynes silk reflections are a really great brand that I go for, and have a variety of colors.

 

Panty-hose:

Panty-hose have been around for a while. They gained popularity in the late sixties, because they eliminated the need for garters and girdles. Both legs were connected by a "control top" which acted as the girdle and the garter.

They became popular because hemlines got shorter. The shorter the skirt the more likely to expose some bare leg at the top, between the garter and the girdle.

This is a package of panty-hose, and you can see the model is wearing a short skirt. This look is a bit later vintage, but it is still vintage. Unfortunately, it is probably the least attractive of the three.

 

 Garter Stockings:

Garter stockings are the quintessential vintage stocking. They come up to the thigh, and they are held up by garters. They are often referred to as nylons. These are the stockings that have seams, though not all do. When you see seamed stockings in old pictures, the women are wearing garter stockings.

These are the ones I wear most. Garter stockings, I mean. Berkshire is a great brand for garter stockings. They have them with and without seams. Seams are 40's, and they faded through the 50's and 60's, which is my nice, so I opt to not wear them. I own several pairs, in case any run, but so far they are all standing up to the wear nicely.

Slips:

There are two types of slips that I will discuss: full slips and skirt or half slips. Full slips cover the whole body, and are similar to vintage nightgowns, only they are more slim fitting. Skirt slips are simply the skirt part.

Slips act as lining for dresses, and were vital in the 50's and 60's (and before) because most dresses were not lined. Wearing slips prolonged the number of times a dress could be worn before washing, and it also protected the wearer from unintentional damage.

Full slips:

Full slips, as I said above, are a dress that lines the inside of clothing. These were worn with dresses. They come in a variety of colors, but almost all of them have lace detailing. In a bind, women would wear them as nightgowns, but only if they were desperate.

Vintage slips are the best option when buying full slips. They are cut slimmer, and meant to shape to a woman's body, whereas modern ones are more straight cut and bulky. I don't have a personal preference for where to buy these, but Etsy has several nice ones, and most vintage stores carry them. You could even try thrift stores.

Skirt or Half slips:

Half slips are skirts that act as a lining. These were typically worn under skirts, and some dresses. If the dress had a sturdier top then the skirt slip would be the way to go.

These come down to about the knee, and can be plain or have many embellishments:

This one is relatively plain with just a little lace trim; it would be perfect under a nice spring skirt.

It is a little hard to see, but this one has lace and flower embroidery. This would probably be the slip that a woman would wear under something for a nice occasion.

Crinolines:

Crinolines are wonderful. They are also called petticoats. These are what give skirts and dresses that classic 50's feel. Betty Draper/Francis from Mad Men wears them constantly in the first three seasons. They are layers of tulle that create a pouf:

This is a rather fancy one, most would look more like:

They come in many, many colors. You could take your pick and match it to your dress. If you are wearing a pale blue dress, you could wear the one above or a white one. I like a little contrast, and wear a slightly different color with my dresses.

You want a crinoline that is about the same length as your dress or skirt. If they are too long they will hang out, and that is not attractive. If they are too short, the skirt will hang flat where the crinoline ends. These are best under circle skirts, because those allow the most room. One last tip for crinolines: you can layer them on top of each other to create a fuller skirt.

I hope this was helpful! This is the last installment of undergarments. There are going to be more Vintage Necessities posts in the future, so look out!